A Journey into the Complexities of Body and Identity / A Dialogue Between Oppression and Liberation
With Epitelio, Seghezzi dismantles the boundaries between masculine and feminine, blending them in a dance of subversion and irony. The collection challenges societal expectations of body and gender, delivering a powerful message in alignment with the brand’s vision.
The silhouettes in the collection are deliberately misplaced, distorted as if existing in the “wrong place,” symbolising bodies in search of a form they have yet to find. Garments that stray from the figure evoke a sense of detachment from the body, while understructures and corsets play a pivotal role: at times enhancing the figure, at others constraining it, revealing the tensions of aesthetic and gender conformity.
Each piece—hand-sewn by the designer and their small team—embodies a duality: oppression and liberation, seriousness and parody. Epitelio is not just a collection; it is an open dialogue on the fluidity of being and the freedom of expression.
INTERVIEW WITH LORENZO SEGHEZZI
You taught yourself corset-making during the pandemic, relying on books and blogs and studying existing corsets. What was the most challenging part of this self-education?
The most challenging part was realising that it would be a long process, full of many trials and errors. This was especially true because, unlike other types of clothing, corsets are garments that cannot be tried on directly during the creation process.
Historically, corsets were tools of control, but you transform them into symbols of self-expression. Do objects carry their pasts with them or can they be redefined entirely?
Objects are, after all, just objects. It is people who define their purposes, characteristics, and intentions. While it’s important to recognise the historical influence they carry, nothing prevents us from giving them a new vision, a new meaning.
Does fashion need to be practical? Or should it serve something more profound: fantasy, transformation or rebellion?
The word “fashion” covers a very broad concept with many facets. Personally, I tend to have a more creative and aesthetic approach, focusing on these aspects and sometimes overlooking the more practical ones.
How do you see the future of gender-fluid fashion evolving, and what role do you hope your designs play in it?
I think the development of gender-fluid fashion is also tied to social and cultural evolution, but it’s important to note that, for centuries, fashion has been a creative and artistic force that often preceded and influenced cultural movements. I hope that, in my small way, my work can give voice to and represent the audience I am addressing.
Looking back at your journey from childhood creativity to self-taught craftsmanship and teaching, what has been the most defining moment in your career so far?
It’s a difficult question because my journey as a self-taught designer, including everything related to brand management, is filled with small milestones and daily achievements. These milestones make the work incredibly rewarding.